Изкарване на 3.5мм аудио жак BUSINESS CD RDS

[nikol78 Профил Уеб-сайт]

може ли някой да каже къде да запоя кабел за музика за външен плеар и ако трябва нещо друго да се прави .

на първата снимка със червено е отбелязано къде бях запоил кабела но звук не излезе .

[El Diablo Профил]

луд си бате еи
колегата NAPSTERS мисля, че ще ти отговори наи точно.. тои е в час с нещата, вътре в колата му навито така лови телевизия, че у нас немам толко ясен образ, и то в движение

[nikol78 Профил Уеб-сайт]

луд си бате еи
колегата NAPSTERS мисля, че ще ти отговори наи точно.. тои е в час с нещата, вътре в колата му навито така лови телевизия, че у нас немам толко ясен образ, и то в движение

е що па да съм луд не ми работи сидито щото немого да намера оптика поне да му ръгна един кабел та да му пускам мр3-и от навигацията

[dobrin90 Профил]

Много добра идея, надявам се да има решение върхо въпроса ти.
Доколкото знам, от "Касетки" може да се изкара такъв вход, но за сд незнам.

Ще следя темата

[NAPSTERS Профил]

несъм вадил аудио вход на такова, със сигурност става, но трябва да го закача на осцилоскопа за да видя каде и какви сигнали штъкат.

[nikol78 Профил Уеб-сайт]

[NikiNikolov Профил]

Здравейте колеги. Решението на вашия проблем е лесно: ползва се аналоговия вход за СД чейнджъра, ама сега ще питате как става, ами довечара или утре мога да ви сложа схемите как става. Не ми се рови сега, все пак съм на работа, . Поздрави.

[nikol78 Профил Уеб-сайт]

Здравейте колеги. Решението на вашия проблем е лесно: ползва се аналоговия вход за СД чейнджъра, ама сега ще питате как става, ами довечара или утре мога да ви сложа схемите как става. Не ми се рови сега, все пак съм на работа, . Поздрави.

ок като имаш време Мерси предварително.

[NikiNikolov Профил]

Снощи натискам "ИЗПРАТИ" и стана мазало, май дръпнаха шалтера на сървара, днес като се освоботя майко ще пусна наново това което имам. Поздрави.

[bmw_n00b Профил]

Този номер действа само при ЦД-та произведени след 09.2002 г. Има си и оригинален кабел, който се продава допълнително или се прави като се запояват две кондензаторчета и едно съпротивление. За такива преди 09.2002 се използва ЦД емулатор, но там схемата е много сложна.

http://www.auto-treff.com/bmw/vb/showth ... adid=97606

[nikol78 Профил Уеб-сайт]

Снощи натискам "ИЗПРАТИ" и стана мазало, май дръпнаха шалтера на сървара, днес като се освоботя майко ще пусна наново това което имам. Поздрави.

[NikiNikolov Профил]

Доколкото разбирам става въпрос за "AUX" вход, липсва някаква "плаваща маса/минус" заради която няма звук и как се решава проблема. Това разбрах с кривия ми английски и как се разрешава на радиото да пусне така желания вход. Успех колеги Ви желая, а Аз продължавам да чакам да ми кацне едно СД за същата процедура.


This is a project write-up on the options to upgrade an early E38 radio to gain compatibility with an aftermarket CD changer or integrated iPod interface. Revjim and I completed this project on his 1997 740iL without navigation over the course of the last couple months. He did all the work, and I simply provided encouragement, troubleshooting, and system theory via phone and email. Unfortunately, I do not have any pictures to post, but they really are not that necessary.

BMW used the closed “PI-Bus” CD changer radio interface in the E38 from 1995 – 1998. Then, they changed to the open “I-Bus” CD changer in 1999 on. You can buy all kinds of aftermarket CD changer and iPod adapters for the later I-Bus radios, but no one makes a CD changer adapter for the early PI-Bus radios. So, most folks who want to get an aftermarket CD changer or iPod are forced to use an FM modulator or do some heavy duty internal wire splicing and soldering inside the radio module. You can also upgrade the car to a newer I-Bus radio, but that is not as straightforward as it sounds.

The challenge to the radio upgrade for a non-navigation car is that BMW made navigation standard in the US in 2000. Therefore, the only possible E38s that could have had an I-Bus, non-navigation radio were some of the 1999 model year cars. However, 1999 was a short run model year, therefore used 1999 radios are scarce on eBay and salvage yards. The other option is to upgrade to a comparable radio from a late E36 3 Series or Z3. If you do not have DSP, these radios plug in and work pretty well. If you do have DSP, then they radios work fine, but you need to change a few more things.

Following are a couple posts that discuss using an E36 3 Series and Z3 radios. The three options are the C33, C43, and CD43 radio. The C33 is the 1st generation radio, and it is pretty much junk, so do not even bother with one of those. Revjim first bought a C33 radio, and returned it within a day. It sounds inferior to the stock E38 radio, and they have notorious pixel problems. The C43 radio is a very nice cassette radio with RDS & PTY (another upgrade over the pre-99 E38 radio). The CD43 radio is the real sweetheart. That one has in-dash CD player, which is a major upgrade. Revjim went with the C43 radio, because he did not care about in-dash CD, and it sounds better than his stock E38 radio.

http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/192508/
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/433594/17

So, when you install one of these radios, a few things will change.

* Your original CD changer will no longer work, because the radio is trying to communicate over the I-Bus instead of your old CD changer’s PI-Bus. (This is OK, because that is the whole point of this upgrade.)
* If you have DSP, your DSP controller display will stop functioning. (This is semi-OK, because DSP equalizer settings are pretty much set-it-and-forget-it for most folks, and the DSP amp itself will continue to function just fine otherwise.)
* If you have DSP, your direct digital SPDIF connection between the CD changer and DSP amp will become inactive. (Again, this is OK, because your radio will just use the standard analog CD changer audio inputs instead.)
* You may get some alternator whine from the radio. (This is fixable, because BMW did an odd wiring hack in the many of the early model year cars that is easy to correct.)

So, off to the project…

Before you install the radio, inspect the radio plug. It may be missing two critical wiring pins for the ground signals between the radio and DSP amp. For some odd reason, BMW did not connect these wires at the radio plug, and spliced them to ground instead. I have identified a number of early E38 and E39 cars (including mine and revjim’s) that have this problem. This “floating ground” will cause alternator whine in with newer radios. Follow this post to inspect and fix the problem before you install the radio.

http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/99394/

After you install the radio, give it a quick audio test. Everything ought to work perfectly except for the CD changer. Now it is time to move back to the trunk compartment, because you will need to create the wiring for the CD changer. The first thing that you need to do is create the 3-pin I-Bus plug. Buy these parts

61.13-0 006 663 CD Changer I-Bus Pin (0.75 mm²)—you will need 3 of these
61.13-8 377 072 CD Changer I-Bus Plug

And splice them into the following places:

Pin 1 Ground (splice into the brown wire on the original CD changer power plug)
Pin 2 Unswitched +12V (splice into the red wire on the original CD changer power plug)
Pin 3 I-Bus (white wire with gray stripe and yellow ringed bands. You can find it on the amp, phone, and other locations in the trunk)

After you create the I-Bus plug, you need to create the 6-pin analog audio CD changer plug. For this, you will modify the cable that led from your old CD changer to the radio. We cut the short 18” PI-Bus cable that connected from the CD changer on one end to the round DIN plug in the car on the other. Then, we spliced the audio wires inside that cable to the new CD changer audio source. The wires are in three groupings inside the short PI-Bus DIN cable. One of the groupings has a red wire and a white wire packaged together. This is the right channel analog audio. Another grouping has a green wire and yellow wire packaged together. This is the left audio channel. We did not use the third grouping. Splice the wires inside the PI-Bus DIN cable as follows:

Red: Right Audio +
White: Right Audio –
Green: Left Audio +
Yellow: Left Audio –

After you do the two trunk wiring hookups, you are done. Connect your new aftermarket CD changer or iPod, and rock on.



I have had an annoying alternator whine through the audio ever since I upgraded to a new gen radio. Back in February, when I was having trouble getting the new gen radio to work in the car, I noticed that my old gen radio plug is different from most other board members—it did not have negative wires (-) for the front left and right audio signals that run to the DSP amp. These are pins 8 and 11 on the 17-pin radio plug. The wires and pins were simply missing, as if they had never been there. As soon as I heard the whine, after I got the new gen radio installed and working, I knew that this was the cause, but I just now got around to fixing it.

Initially, I assumed that I would have to run completely new wires from the radio plug to the DSP amp. However, when I unwrapped the first 6” of the radio harness wiring, I found my negative audio wires. They were folded back and spliced into the chassis ground on the radio harness. This was done at the factory, because the length of the ground wires extended about 4” beyond the length needed to reach the radio plug. If it was done after the fact, then the wires would have been shorter then the length needed to reach the radio plug.

Original radio harness with the L & R negative wires spliced to the chassis ground
(You can see that pins 8 and 11 are missing)

http://prikachi.com/images.php?files/1300829J.jpg

My guess is that BMW was having alternator whine problems in the early cars, and this was their solution. (The cause was probably a ground loop, where the amp and the radio were not perfectly grounded.) This splice solution would only work if the radio’s audio negative connections were also grounded to the chassis. I am guessing that this was the case with the old gen radios, but not so with the new gen radios. This created a “floating ground” in the new gen radio, which is a leading cause of alternator whine.

My first challenge was to find the reprlacement pins for the radio plug. The RealOEM database was very handy (replacement pins on RealOEM), but it was not clear from the diagram and descriptions which pins I needed—so I ordered a set of everything that looked remotely similar. All of the pins I ordered would have worked, but one was more perfect than the others. The differences between them are the gauge of the wire pigtails connected to the pins and that the some of the pins have a plastic strain relief or insulation shield where the wire crimps to the pin. I used the pins with PN 61.13-000 7 449 (reference 4 in the RealOEM link), because the wire gauge looked the same as the audio wiring and it did not have the strain relief thing. The pins with the thicker gauge wire looked the same the wiring used for the power and ground connections (The pins themelves were identical.) Now I just have a lots of left over radio plug wiring pins to find a creative use for.

Replacement radio plug pins with wire pigtails that I spliced back into my radio harness

http://prikachi.com/images.php?files/1300835z.jpg

The repair probably took me less than 15 minutes to complete (not including disassembly and reassembly). The biggest hassle was simply removing all of the junk in the trunk to get to the radio. This would probably only be applicable to a small number of cars. Everyone with cars 1998 or newer with at least MKII navigation seemed to have the L&R negative signal pins. My car had a MKI navigation and was built in 7/1997, so this problem may only be present in the navigation equipped cars built prior to 9/1997, which are very few. And then, you will probably only get the alternator whine problem if you upgrade to a new gen radio.

Repaired radio plug harness with all of the signal and ground connections as they should be

http://prikachi.com/images.php?files/1300840d.jpg

BMW in-dash radios 1991-2001 (maybe up to 2003 but I'm not sure) wiring harness diagrams...radios are interchangable but trunk mounted CD changers may not be compatible depending on I-Bus; M-Bus; or navigation technology installed in vehicle:
1991 Pioneer & Alpine radio

1991-1995 index for 17-pin Radio harness and 10-pin CD cable: check to see if your existing harness has the same wiring pin line-up...you may need to disconnect the CD changer cable from the harness if the radio is compatible but the changer is not.


Модели на радиата

http://prikachi.com/images.php?files/1300850i.jpg
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http://prikachi.com/images.php?files/1300853S.jpg
http://prikachi.com/images.php?files/1300854A.jpg
http://prikachi.com/images.php?files/1300856S.jpg
http://prikachi.com/images.php?files/1300857y.jpg
http://prikachi.com/images.php?files/1300859j.jpg

[bmw_n00b Профил]

Колега, без да се обиждаш, ама от къде това самочувствие да се изказваш така самонадеяно за неща от които си нямаш ни най-малка представа

Разбрал си общо 3 думи от целия текст - "AUX" ... "плаваща маса/минус"

В текста, който си копирал става въпрос как да се смени радио от старата генерация с такова от новата, за да може да се свърже впоследствие афтърмаркет (не БМВ) чейнджър или ЦД емулатор (Ipod адаптер). А "плаваща маса/минус" е във връзка с паразитен шум, който се получава като се направи замяната и изчезва като се заземят посочените жици.

ПП Гледай да ти кацне едно ЦД с производствена дата след 09.2002 г. и с радост ще ти обясня как да си извадиш вход за външен източник - AUX in.

[nikol78 Профил Уеб-сайт]

Колега, без да се обиждаш, ама от къде това самочувствие да се изказваш така самонадеяно за неща от които си нямаш ни най-малка представа

Разбрал си общо 3 думи от целия текст - "AUX" ... "плаваща маса/минус"

В текста, който си копирал става въпрос как да се смени радио от старата генерация с такова от новата, за да може да се свърже впоследствие афтърмаркет (не БМВ) чейнджър или ЦД емулатор (Ipod адаптер). А "плаваща маса/минус" е във връзка с паразитен шум, който се получава като се направи замяната и изчезва като се заземят посочените жици.

ПП Гледай да ти кацне едно ЦД с производствена дата след 09.2002 г. и с радост ще ти обясня как да си извадиш вход за външен източник - AUX in.

а при моя случеи решение няма така ли да разбирам нещата ?

[NikiNikolov Профил]

Каквото съм разбрал това е, не съм запознат с английския, но гаранция без чужда помощ ще постигна това което искам. Все пак има решение на въпроса и не е сложно. Като разбирате толкова много защо не помогнете на колегата ?????????