алтернатор ?

3-та серия ('83-'94)

Модератори: GEORGIEV, ///Явор, ge_a, Технически модератори

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алтернатор ?

Мнение от GOGY » 18 Юни 2005, 20:47

алтернатора ми маи се е скапал или е тръгнал да се скапва през няколко дни ми пада акумолатора а е по4ти нов , как да го провера дали е 4итав тоя алтернатор :help:
jba jbu jbadu jmuc bajuu

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Кара: 1985 BMW E30 M10B18

Мнение от ivantchoG » 18 Юни 2005, 22:03

Копи/пасте от Хайнес :D

14 Charging system - check

1 If a malfunction occurs in the charging circuit, don’t automatically assume that the alternator is causing the problem. First check the following items:
a) Check the drivebelt tension and condition (see Chapter 1). Renew the drivebelt if it’s worn or deteriorated.
b) Make sure the alternator mounting and adjustment bolts are tight.
c) Inspect the alternator wiring harness and the connectors at the alternator and voltage regulator. They must be in good condition and tight.
d) Check the fuses.
e) Start the engine and check the alternator for abnormal noises (a shrieking or squealing sound indicates a worn bearing, but could also be due to a slipping drivebelt - see a) above).
f) Check the specific gravity of the battery electrolyte. If it’s low, charge the battery (doesn’t apply to maintenance-free batteries).
g) Make sure the battery is fully-charged (one bad cell in a battery can cause overcharging by the alternator).
h) Disconnect the battery cables (negative first, then positive). Inspect the battery posts and the cable clamps for corrosion. Clean them thoroughly if necessary.

2 With the ignition off, connect a 12 volt test light between the battery negative post and the disconnected negative cable clamp. If the test light does not come on, refit the cable and proceed to paragraph 4. If the test light comes on, there is a short (drain) in the electrical system of the vehicle. The short must be repaired before the charging system can be checked. Note: Accessories which are always on (such as the clock or the radio station memory) must be disconnected before performing this check.

3 Disconnect the alternator wiring harness. If the test light now goes out, the alternator is faulty. If the light stays on, remove each fuse in turn until the light goes out (this will tell you which component is shorting out).

4 Using a voltmeter, check the battery voltage with the engine off. It should be approximately 12 volts.

5 Start the engine and check the battery voltage again. It should now be approximately 14 to 15 volts.

6 Turn on the headlights. The voltage should drop, and then come back up, if the charging system is working properly.

7 If the voltage reading is more than the specified charging voltage, renew the voltage regulator (refer to Section 16). If the voltage is less, the alternator diode(s), stator or rotor may be faulty, or the voltage regulator may be malfunctioning.

8 If there is no short-circuit causing battery drain but the battery is constantly discharging, then either the battery itself is defective, the alternator drivebelt is loose , the alternator brushes are worn, dirty or disconnected , the voltage regulator is malfunctioning or the diodes, stator coil or rotor coil are defective. Repairing or renewing the diodes, stator coil or rotor coil is beyond the scope of the home mechanic. Either renew the alternator complete, or take it to an automotive electrician, who may be able to overhaul it. Note: On models up to 1986, a blown ignition/no-charge warning light bulb will prevent the alternator from charging. After 1987, a resistor is wired in parallel with the warning light, in order to allow current to bypass the light in the event of a broken circuit (blown warning light).
".....Ние, можещите, водени от незнаещите, вършим невъзможното за кефа на неблагодарните. И сме направили толкова много, с толкова малко, за толкова кратко време, че сме се квалифицирали да правим всичко от нищо....." К.Иречек, 13.12.1881
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Мнение от GOGY » 18 Юни 2005, 23:49

мерси много братле А си жив и здрав :D
jba jbu jbadu jmuc bajuu

Назад към E30

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